The Greene Room at the Cricketers is one of Brighton’s hidden gems, as Sam Harrington-Lowe discovers…

Tell us about it…
The Greene Room is a private space above the Cricketers in the centre of Brighton. On arriving you feel a bit like you’re entering a secret hideaway, tiptoeing up the stairs at the back of the bar. It’s one of those places that always makes me remember why I love Brighton so much.

At the top of the stairs you enter a lovely little private bar area, where they made me a properly spicy Bloody Mary, and as I was early I was able to plot up by the window in the restaurant bit and watch the world go by. There’s also free WiFi, so I did actually get my laptop out with the intention of doing something constructive. But in all honesty I was much too nosey to work, idly sucking down my excellent drink and watching the good people of Brighton go about their business. It’s a lovely oasis in a busy hub.

What did you eat?
This is a place that does what you’d almost call ‘good old fashioned pub food’, except it’s a bit too well-developed for that. Definitely not in the poncy ‘gastro’ zone though, the meals are hearty and there’s nothing scary on the menu, but there are lovely little twists to everything.

We kicked off with just an appetiser, Salt & Pepper Squid with garlic mayo (£3) which was great – fresh and biteable, no chewy rubber rings here. Crumb on the rings was handmade too, which we liked.

And it was a drizzly sort of day, so winter warmers all round for main course – Braised Lamb Shank with roast garlic mash and red cabbage (£14.95) and Beef Casserole with buttered creamy mash (£12) soon saw off any kind of wintry sadness, and as the heavenly warmth of the most meltingly tender comfort food hit us, we sighed with relief and slid a little further down in our seats.

Did you do dessert?
What a question. Of course we did – despite eyeing up the comfy sofas in the bar for a post-lunch snooze we bravely went on and ordered the rather amazing Clementine & Ginger Cheesecake with zesty lemon ice cream, and a Treacle Sponge Pudding with maple & walnut ice cream – both a very reasonable £6.

This is where those extra touches really count – both ice creams really made the desserts stand out. Treacle and nuts, what’s not to like? And the zesty citrusy mix with the cheesecake… lovely.

Sum it up
The Greene Room is a lovely place to eat in, the food is great and it’s excellent value for money. It’s mostly a private function space, although it’s also open during the weekend, but it’s at private functions that the venue excels. It’s perfect for parties or smallish groups – the capacity upstairs is 65 – and it would be ideal for a Christmas event. Open for normal dining Fri-Sun.

The Greene Room at The Cricketers
15 Black Lion St, Brighton
01273 329472