Spring/Summer is finally upon us and with it comes the fresh new arrival of new season fashions and a new feeling of optimism. As always the catwalks gave us so much inspiration, and many different themes of which to explore.
One of these is “art inspired”, as designers quite literally played with the idea of fashion as art, from subtle influences such as Karl Lagerfeld’s colourful, palette perfected, silk chiffon dresses for Chanel right through to Celine’s primary coloured bold brush stokes, while at Prada it was a more literal take on the art theme with primary coloured portrait decorated pieces from artists and illustrators such as Jeanne Detallante & Pierre Mornet.
Versatility played a major role too, Christopher Kane for example was one of many who made the sweatshirt, (the new IT item) a key piece within his collection, made summer appropriate in pastel shades emblazoned with the words “Petal” and “Flower” in delicate lace.
Of course, the idea of floral’s comes as no surprise for the summer collections however this year’s floral’s were given a fresh twist. Christopher Kane once again deserves mention for his too cool for school, unique take on this, with his flowers coming as detailed anatomical illustrations.
Digitally printed bold floral’s were the order of the day for British designer Mary Katrantzou, who this season kept things light-hearted and doll like in her silhouettes with pretty floral prints, yet contrasted and layered for added edge. My personal favourite floral’s came from the feminine show of Alberta Ferretti, embroidered onto black and white backgrounds in zesty bold colours and worn with colourful stripes.
History was another theme shown within the house of Valentino, who always have luxury at the heart of their brand, and this season took ancient inspiration culminating in heavy embroidery, deep colour pallets and plenty of gold that somehow still managed to look fresh enough for the season.
Of course, Marc Jacobs final collection for Louis Vuitton would be a bitter-sweet affair and he chose to leave in a dark, sober yet stunning all black and couture denim collection, which celebrated the end of his 16 year stint at the design house in pure luxury and as a statement against the expected.
However, fun was not far from the catwalks, Ironic statements could be seen, Alexander Wang, for example deemed his collection to need “Parental Advisory: Explicit content” while Jeremy Scott’s appointment at Moschino brought McDonalds and Sponge-bob Square pants iconography into the limelight, and Giles Deacon’s muse, in the form of the Georgia Jagger’s beautiful imperfect smile, was shown in sequinned and printed motifs across simple shift dresses.
This for me sums up the season, the idea of imperfect beauty and a celebration of diversity and individualism, while never falling short of the light-heartedness of such an exciting and carefree season. Spring summer has never looked so strong while still remaining delicate and versatile for the British weather. All bases it seems are covered this season. And luckily for us Brightonian’s all weathers too! Words by Natalie Wileman